Wave Shoppe Hawaiian Shirt Fabric Design



Sketch 1

Near the end of the of the year we thought we would close things out with a glimpse of one of the new Hawaiian print fabrics we have been working on for the last 4 months.

Of course there are those of you that are already asking the big question "what takes you so long to knock out a design?" So for those people I will also guide you through some of the basic steps in doing so.

The first step in this process is taking my thoughts on a new fabric design and conveying those mental thoughts to the artist.

This particular design started out with a few leaf and flower pictures from Google images that I simply laid out on a table so I could get a feel for the sizing and repeat for the design.

Once I have a feel for the general repeat I take some rough measurements of things such as flower size, leaf width etc. I will then send my masterpiece to our artist via email. Once she recovers she will call me back and pick my brain over the phone, eventually we reach a point where she feels comfortable enough to start roughing out the first draft of this particular design. Shown in Sketch 1 is the first draft sketch with hibiscus flower and banana leaf.



Sketch 2
 

After we received the first sketch we put it into triage and discuss the designs good and bad points and note any changes we would like to see. In this particular rendition we decided that the banana leaf was to dominant as well as to wide.

 

So the decision was made to scrap one of the banana leafs and replace it with a fern leaf, which is depicted in sketch 2.

 

At this point I should mention that one of the specs for this design was that it not only had to work for Hawaiian shirts for men and women, but also muumuus and dresses.

 

One item that troubled us on this design was that the overall design looked a little “heavy”, meaning the overall design was just to dominant and out of balance with the background color. The weight of a design can make or beak things so its imperative that this part is done correctly.

 

This particular design was actually passed between quite a few artists in Hawaii as well as Japan to discuss the weighting of the leaves as well how to improve the overall look and feel of the design. In my professional opinion the finalized design is now perfectly weighted and well balanced.

 

If you look over at sketch 2 you will see that the tip of the fern leaf is pretty tight against the tip of the banana leaf and the leaf for the hibiscus flower overlaps the banana leaf.
 

Colorized sketch

Mock coloring will also uncover an entirely new set of problems. This design is called an “all over” design and is suitable for not just Hawaiian shirts, but also dresses. What you want to avoid is having any one portion of the design jumping out at you.

At first glance you want the eye to see the entire design and not jump to a specific part, which is this situation we felt we had created just that. If you look at the colorized sketch you will see a few portions of the banana leaf that stood out too much against the rest of the leaf design.

Rather than trying to describe this over the phone it's way easier to send the artist a marked up picture.

In this particular round of changes we asked the artist to break up the broader parts of some leaves with some simple strokes of a brush. The end result was a night and day difference.

Now take a look at the coloring mockup below and you will see that not only has the space between the foliage been increased, but also the width of the banana leafs has now been decreased. The overall positions of the flower clusters were also tweaked so they were in balance with the overall repeat.



Coloring mockup

Next is the all-important task of coloring the design. During the early stages of the design the artist will slap on some random colors, mainly so we can have a little better perspective on what the end design will look like.

 

Ultimately the color choices are left up to me, so during the often lengthy in-between time that it takes to make sketch changes, I can be found digging through color charts and pairing up colors that I feel will be well received by our in-store and on-line customers.


I will normally lay out 50 color codes on a table, and through a process of elimination, eventually arrive at five colors (for each colorway) that I feel go together the best.

  

I would eventually settle on a series of colors, add them in print order next to the color mockup, take a picture of it and then send it to the artist. Yes it’s a bit primitive sounding, but that’s how it works and I am probably being more technical than most artists.

New blue

The end result of all of this work is a new design in blue (shown on the left), which has a perfect color balance. Men as well as women should embrace the colors and how well they work with this particular design.

 

The new purple shown below is another design that we are very excited about.

 

Currently there is not a lot of purple Hawaiian fabric on the market and the designs you can buy are really sucky and cheap looking. 

While we have not yet received the strikeoffs, which is essentially a very short run of approximately 3 yards or each color, we anticipate some really stellar looking fabric. Especially the purple Hawaiian fabric.

New purple

Strikeoffs should be available for our final approval late February 2013 and once we approve them there will be a few weeks of printing time, and maybe another 3 weeks at sea before the rolls of fabric reaches our cutting shop in San Diego.

Which is where we make our Wave Shoppe labeled dresses and Hawaiian shirts sold on www.waveshoppe.com

Your comments and opinions matter, what do you think overall of these designs? Would you buy a shirt or dress in this design?

Hawaiian Shirt Collars Explained

Picture of the 2 different collar styles used in Hawaiian shirts

Shown above is button up collar Hawaiian shirt (shown on the left), a spread collar Hawaiian shirt with a loop closure (shown on the right), this style is commonly referred to as a camp shirt.

In the western hemisphere there has to be at least 35 or so official shirt collar styles, possibly more, so its easy to see why Hawaiian shirt collectors and aficionados get confused about what is what. In regards to a Hawaiian shirt collar, there are 2 basic styles, each has a few style variations as well as different nomenclature.  

The button up collar Hawaiian shirt will utilize what’s called a collar stand, which is sewn between the shirt body and the visible collar.

The collar stand will have a button on one side and a buttonhole on the other, which give the wearer the option to button the shirt or leave it open at varied degrees of openness.


Technically speaking you can say that this shirt style shown above utilizes a 2-piece collar.

Keep in mind that we are referring the sewn garment and not the number of pieces required to make such a collar, which is 2 for the collar stand and 2 for the visible portion of the collar.

Point spread, which we will cover a bit more later on, really isn’t at play because it mainly applies to the cut of the collar and the degrees apart when the collar tips are when the shirt is buttoned. With this collar style there is no pre-set position for the collar tips or collar points, so there is no real way to measure the spread of the collar tips/points. A.K.A. point spread. 

 

Since hardly anyone buttons their shirts at the collar stand, its really not much of a factor or talking point right now. 
 

Let’s now talk about Hawaiian shirts with loop collars. As you can see from the picture on your left that the loop collar style is noticeably different from the button up collar that utilizes a collar stand. While this collar style still uses a button, a loop has replaced the buttonhole. To attach one simply places the loop around the button.

The overall design of a camp shirt is built around a simple open collar design with tips integrated into the shirt. Some may also referred to these collar types as spread collars or camp collars.

You will also find that many of the Hawaiian shirts available today may or may not have the loop and button closure, does that mean anything? Not really, its more a matter of preference, just as having a shirt with a button up collar or loop collar is.

I would like to close by emphasizing that just because your shirt has one of the two collars mentioned, it doesn’t mean that it’s a Hawaiian shirt. You still need some type of design on the shirt that is symbolic of the islands and cultures. In my opinion a solid colored shirt is as far from being Hawaiian, as a horse is to being a zebra.

Special thanks to the folks at Wave Shoppe for the technical info and to Kahala for the model images. Mahalo

Reverse Print Hawaiian Shirts: Turn Your World Inside Out

Today’s topic is about reverse print Hawaiian shirts and some of the myths and misconceptions that surround them.  If you ask someone what reverse print means to them you will get a variety of responses, with many responses hinging on what trade or task that they are actually familiar with.

People familiar with the technique of printing images or text on the underside of a transparent film or part of a lamination process may say that’s their definition of “reverse print” and to others the modification of your printer properties to achieve a “reverse print” A.K.A mirror image of your fonts, is the proper definition. Both definitions are correct, as well as many others.

But for the sake of discussion I am going to stick with a topic I am an expert on, and that’s Hawaiian apparel, in particular Hawaiian shirts. We sell all sorts of Hawaiian apparel at Wave Shoppe including some reverse print Hawaiian shirts, but you would be amazed by how many people that wear them yet have no idea how they are made.  One common myth is that the shirts are flopped inside out and another myth is that the fabric is somehow printed so that the pattern is muted and dull.

Truth be told the concept is extremely simple. But first let’s do a quick review of how fabric is printed so this will make complete sense to our readers. When a fabric is printed the rolls of white cotton are screen printed by a machine, usually in a continuous run. The coloring or dye lot is pressed into the exposed layer of the raw fabric, and then dried, producing the vivid and often colorful patterns that you see in the shirts.

When the dye is applied it’s absorbed by the fabric and how saturated the fabric get depends on the fabrics gauge and or thickness and thread count, as well as the pressure used during application.

On a good print job the dye will almost ooze from the underside (non-printed side of the fabric) producing a dull toned down, yet mirror image of the design being applied, as illustrated below.

So at this point we have covered the basic aspects of printing fabric. The soft rule for when you are selecting candidate fabrics for reverse print Hawaiian shirts is that you focus on the undersides of the fabrics (as shown above) and try imagine what they would look like as a shirt.

With a little experience under your belt you will come to know that not all fabrics are good candidates, some have too many dominant colors that have bleed through and some don’t have enough. What you don’t want is a shirt that is so poorly dyed that all you see is the thread weave or worse, a visibly low thread count. You objectives are to make a muted looking Hawaiian shirt that looks a bit more stylish than a ghetto looking shirt that was simply flipped inside out.

Once you have made your selection you’re off to the races. All that’s left is to lay out the layers of fabric with the original printed side down and then start cutting the components of the shirt. Sewing will put it all together and presto, you will have a reverse print Hawaiian shirt! The shirt we used for illustration purpose’s is for sale and is appropriately referred to as our Blue Green Reverse Print Hawaiian Shirt which is a big hit with our reverse print customers.

4th of July Celebrations Hawaii

Independence Day, commonly known as the Fourth of July, is a federal holiday in the United States commemorating the adoption of the Declaration of Independence. It’s also one of my favorite BBQ holidays and most people would agree with me.

This year the 4^th is on a Wednesday so throwing the traditional Hawaiian party or Luau is going to be tricky. Many people I know plan on celebrating the 4^th on the day of, as well as the weekend before (and yes, I will be wearing my 4th of July Hawaiian shirt) and of course you will find yourself starting the holiday weekend in June, which in my opinion will feel sort of odd to some. But who really cares, you still get a day off work as well as a short, fragmented work week.
 
I wear Wave Shoppe Hawaiian shirts every day and can cook out on the grill whenever I like, so having my holiday weekend start in a different month is no big deal. While I am thinking about it, if you don’t have a new Hawaiian shirt for the weekend you may want to check out Wave Shoppe’s current holiday promotion and save yourself some money and time by shopping online.

 If you’re going to be visiting the Hawaiian islands during the 4^th of July you’re in for a real treat as all of the Hawaiian Islands celebrate the 4^th of July with fireworks and in multiple locations on each island.  The listings below link to Hawaii for visitors website.

Oahu 4th of July Celebrations
Independence Day events on Oahu include fireworks displays at Ala Moana Center, the Aloha Tower Marketplace, Maunalua Bay, and Turtle Bay and several 4th of July Celebrations in other Oahu locations. 

Big Island 4th of July Celebrations
4th of July celebrations on Hawaii Island include the Kailua-Kona 4th of July Parade, the Volcano 4th of July Parade, the Parker Ranch Independence Weekend Rodeo, the Great Waikoloa 4th of July Extravaganza, the Mauna Lani Turtle Independence Day, and the Firecracker Open Big Game Fishing Tournament. 

Maui 4th of July Celebrations
Parades, festivals, and fireworks displays celebrating the 4th of July on Maui Island. Independence Day events on Maui include the Lahaina Fireworks Show and Concert, the Kaanapali 4th of July Celebration, and the Makawao Rodeo. 

Kauai 4th of July Celebrations
Festivals, and fireworks displays celebrating the 4th of July on Kauai Island. The biggest Independence Day celebration on Kauai Island is the "Concerts in the Sky" festival, live music event, and fireworks show in Vidinha Stadium in Lihue, East Kauai.

Happy Father's Day from Wave Shoppe

Happy Father’s Day from all of us at Wave Shoppe Hawaiian Shirts. We celebrate all fathers who, through their own efforts and the efforts of their sons and daughters, have made America the great country that it is!

Have gratitude and love for your father who could also be a hero, guide and friend, he is the only dad you will ever have.

Happy Father’s Day and mahalo everyone!

Travel Info for Your Hawaii Vacation

Aloha everyone, with warm weather and summer fast approaching, it time to start thinking about summer vacations, as well as getting into the planning stages for some luaus. But we also know that those are not always simple tasks and that people may need ideas or basic advise.

So having said that, we thought that we would share some of our favorite vacation and travel articles/references with you. Yes, some of the sites are ad supported (we get a few cents if a visitor clicks on an ad), but the information contained on the sites we are suggesting could prove to be pretty invaluable to many people.

So first up in our favorites list is Travelers Frequently Asked Questions About Traveling to Hawaii  posted on Island Shirts. The page offers information on airports and flight travel as well as tips in eating, what to wear and so on. 

Next on our list is an article from Shop Hawaiian containing Recommendations on stores and businesses to shop at in Hawaii and smart shoppers know that personalized shopping recommendations are the way to go. Also on our virtual itinerary is the website Shop Aloha where you can Learn more about Hawaii's Culture and Lifestyle, its always good to have some basic knowledge of the culture, and that applies to just about any new location you visit.

Now onto our favorite part of summer, that being PARTIES! Yes, we live for them. But again many people are at a loss and do not even know where to start. And of course we are going to hook you up; let’s start with How to Decorate for a Luau where you can learn from someone’s first hand experiences. The writings cover everything you need to know about luau decorations and more.

And as an added bonus for our valued readers we offer you tips on How to Dress for a Luau which is a must read for the party planners as your guests will all be asking you what’s appropriate luau wear and what’s not.

Factually speaking, the most commonly questions asked still, and for some seamingly odd reason always will, pertain to What to wear in Hawaii and we think that it’s because most people simply want to fit in and in a way pay respect to the Hawaiian culture. If you consider yourself to be a really geeky Hawaiian apparel person you may enjoy an lengthy yet detailed article authored by Linda Boynton Arthur, titled History of Hawaiian Holoku (Hawaiian dresses). We hope this helps you have a more enjoyable summer and if you have a resource you would like to share simply mention it in a comment and we will check it out. Mahalo everyone!

Charles and the Four Letter Word

I will never forget my first visit to Oahu I was so excited when I was booking the trip one of the things on my wish list was to get a room overlooking the ocean where we could relax and watch those amazing sunsets framed by palm trees. My husband Charles sitting right next to me envisioned a room in the industrial area where we could focus on business, after all, many of the Hawaiian shirts from Wave Shoppe are made in Hawaii (as well as the mainland) and that is where we were going to meet our designers who would help us create our first custom fabric.

I remember finding an awesome room overlooking Waikiki while he was busily, or should I say carefully plotting the hotel that would be most convenient to businesses he needed to visit.

Being the wonderful wife that I am and not wanting him to waste too much time on his idea of a cheap room with no view or ocean breezes as soon as he came up with his dream “work” hotel I swiveled in my desk chair leveled him “the stare” and said “We ARE going to have an ocean view”.

My husband pulled his wallet out from his back pocket and pretended to dust it off thought for a moment and said those magic words “Ok Dear”.

Don’t get me wrong he is not a “Yes” man but he realized that it must be important to me and my husband does everything he can to make sure I am happy. So we got a great room overlooking the ocean and when we opened that balcony door to the first sunset it was stunning. The next day after lunch I sprung on him the dreaded FOUR LETTER WORD I casually mentioned that I wanted to SHOP.

I know I heard him mutter under his breath “you own a freaking Hawaiian store” but he denies it to this day, so we decided to check out the shops closest to the hotel. As we walked down the sidewalk of Waikiki we found a little store called the ABC store.

It was filled with cool stuff lots of touristy stuff and of course every family and friend I knew wanted something. We weren’t paying much attention to the names of the stores but after about the fourth store my husband looked at me in horror and said we were in the same store and there was one on every block and you know he was right.

There is an ABC store on just about every corner but just to make sure I didn’t miss anything I checked them all out. Next on my list was The International Market Place which is an open-air market filled with hundreds of booths it is one of the best places to go if you are looking for souvenirs they had entertainment in the form of a band and a group of hula dancers.

My husband watched a man carve tikis while I looked at each and every booth.

The next day we visited Hilo Hatties and that is one cool store! Then the following day we finished our shopping spree with a trip to the Aloha Stadium Swap Meet with one of my girlfriends who had once said “don’t miss that place it has everything” so we went there and was amazed at everything that was offered and there were great prices too.

It was hot that day and humid as it had rained a little in the am, so after our two hour tour we were ready for an early dinner. Charles decided on going down the strip to an all you can eat crab at a hotel buffet and arrived back to the room just in time to enjoy another sunset in paradise and vegetate for a while.


If anyone know's of some other cool places to shop while on Oahu please hit me up, as we will be going back again this summer and I am sure Charles will appreciate your referral.

The Colorful History of Hawaiian Shirts

Hawaiian shirts, most often referred to as Aloha shirts in Hawaii, originated there in the early 1930s, designed and produced by Ellery Chun, a Waikiki merchant. He found himself with a surplus of old kimono fabrics and decided to fashion shirts which could be sold to the tourists. The local newspaper began calling them Aloha shirts, and Chun was quick to trademark the name.

Very soon, Chun had neither shirts nor surplus fabric, as locals and tourists alike descended upon his store and bought his entire stock. His unique contribution to Hawaiian apparel was an immediate hit and its popularity has since spread around the world. Chun, unfortunately, enjoyed a limited portion of the success, as within a few years, Aloha shirts were being mass produced by several major design labels. Most of that production was marketed as Hawaiian shirts, to avoid trademark infringement.

When World War II was over, the tourist trade in Hawaii began to grow rapidly, and by 1959, when Hawaii became a state, essentially every tourist sported a Hawaiian shirt. As a result, the shirts’ popularity gradually spread to California, as surfers quickly embraced them as a part of their own sub-culture.

Meanwhile, back in the Islands, the Aloha shirt had become synonymous with Hawaiian in another way. Through common usage, relaxing business dress standards and organized movements, the more formal business dress of shirt, tie and jacket were replaced with this new icon of Hawaiian culture.

“Casual Friday”, a practice in many businesses in the mainland U.S., actually has its origins in “Aloha Friday”, which was the day that many Hawaiian businesses and offices allowed Aloha shirts to be worn by employees. Today, however, Hawaiian shirts are considered appropriate dress for all but the most formal of events, and are considered appropriate business attire for any setting or day of the week. Client calls, business conferences and seminars, court appearances, as well as weddings and funerals… all will see many such shirts in the crowd.

The average kama`aina (native-Hawaiian or long-time resident) typically won’t wear the brightly colored shirts that many of us are used to seeing at the airport. They tend to prefer somewhat subdued colors and prints, most often either floral or of a Polynesian motif, and often in a reverse print. Reverse print is using the fabric in a way that places the prominently printed side on the inside of the garment, which gives the impression the shirt is being worn inside-out.

The typical malihini (newcomer or visitor) is often to be found wearing the less sedate prints, which sometimes are comprised of non-traditional images, such as sea creatures, automobiles or sports team logos - the possibilities being virtually unlimited. Some companies, both in the Islands and the mainland U.S., have even commissioned “uniform” shirts for their employees, sporting the company logo or products. Trader Joe’s, for instance, has made the Aloha shirt their dress code for employees.

In addition to the cultural aspect of this relatively new Hawaiian apparel item (forty years is a very short time, in the context of Hawaii’s rich history), it is extremely practical wear. Somewhat similar in concept to the guayabera of Mexico, Cuba, the Philippines and other countries with heavy Spanish influence, Hawaiian shirts are especially comfortable in tropical climates, where loose-fitting clothing is preferable. The Hawaiian version, however, usually has only pocket on the left breast, while the guayabera has two or four pockets, as well as front and back pleats, which the Aloha shirt doesn’t have.

The mu’umu’u (a long and loose fitting dress), is another form of popular Hawaiian apparel, often worn by women, although women often also wear the shirts. The prints are similar, and it’s not uncommon to see couples wear matching prints. Some women also opt for the shorter Hawaiian dresses or tank dresses, both of which are sleeveless.

While there are many suppliers of Hawaiian apparel, those whose clothing is made in the Islands or the mainland U.S., rather than made in Asia, are considered to be “authentic” and are generally of higher quality. In today’s global market, it’s sometimes difficult to source authentic products, but if you intend to wear a Hawaiian shirt or any other item of Hawaiian apparel, wouldn’t you rather it actually be Hawaiian, rather than “Made in China”?

Wave Shoppe, based in Escondido, is one of the few Hawaiian shirts manufacturers and retailers based 100% in the United States. Wave Shoppe is committed to providing the finest American Made Hawaiian clothing at the price and quality that our customers deserve.

Tips on Ordering Boys Hawaiian Shirts and Outfits

Its my experience that when it comes to choosing little boys clothing, that men, as well as women, all have a hard time choosing the proper size. To be honest, if I didn’t have a retail store that sold children’s clothes I probably wouldn’t know either. So I will just cut to the chase and give you the guys low down on selecting the correct children’s size each and every time (well most of the time).

For boys Hawaiian cabana outfits all you need to do is know the child’s age, and yes it’s that simple.  In example a garment labeled 6M is made for a child that is at least 6 months old, yet younger than the next size up. Let’s say the next size is 2, that would fit a child that is 2 years old, but is under 4 years old, which is size [insert drum roll] size 4!


So while there are some children’s garments in size 1, most children’s outfits are labeled 6M, 2, 4, 6, and 8 (which spans size 8 – 10)

Boys Hawaiian shirts are an entirely different ballgame though. Most boys shirts are labeled small, medium, large and XL and they are probably the most difficult to choose, mainly because a boys small is not the same size as an adult size small.

So what’s a guy to do? Well for me its back to the child’s age.

In my opinion a child’s size 8, which is for children 8 – 10 years old could also serve as a size small. So if I made a conversion chart it would look like this. 8 = Small, 10 = Medium, 12 = large, 14 = Children’s XL or adult Small.

While all of this is not definitive, you’re odds of choosing correctly the first time are excellent. You may also want to consider whether or not the boy is active or a video game couch potato (whereas my formulas are void)

Now that you’re an expert on children’s clothing, have a look at some of the new boys Hawaiian clothing from everyone’s favorite Hawaiian store, Wave Shoppe Hawaiian Shirts.